JEBEL BARKAL

 
The Nile, swathed in luscious green
meanders purposefully
between the dunes and escarpments;
a great, animate presence
couched between its high banks
be-jewelled with viridian islands,
glassy rapids and tumultuous cataracts.
This spot evinces a geologic pre-history
of violent, toppled worlds
where glutinous lava and fire,
live and  lithe, once monstrously flowed
over the land, filling in the valleys
and the river-bed itself
 with its detritus, on its inexorable way,
gushing from the spouts and moley-hills
as the Earth shifted in its posts.
 
Here, the basalt still stands in black cliffs
the snaked trail of its blistering passage
marking limits for house, pasture
 or date-grove now;
walls and boundaries not made by man, but the limits and edges set
by congealing layers of slithered rock.
 
From alongside these riverine villages
with their palm and mango orchards,
fishing boats pull up on shingly shallows
in the shade of tamarind scrub
their nets bleached by the sun;
here and there monolithic chunks of rock
rise from the desert floor as if carved,
as if some surveying daemon
with a knotted measuring rope and nebiu
had set them out, duly squared
on the rim of the desert;
guardians of the sacred river.
to be indwelt by gods and kings.
 
Wading through the powdery sand drifts,
passing the clutter of cemeteries
clustering at the base of Jebel Barkal
ancient and contemporary,
the locals gather after prayers
 on Fridays, for family picnics;
 many clamber to the top
and then set off, running down
the sand-clad western face
as if gravity was up-tilted
 - in giant whooshy, sliding steps,
jellabias billowing sails, with arms flailing
all the way down, like on skis, joy-riding:
from distant, zoomed-out dots
tumbling breathless and laughing
to tip out full-scale and size
onto the flat and holy ground.
 
Under their feet, in the carved temple
primordial beings still reign
with a scraggly tourist troop queuing
to pay homage or take selfies.
A hunched man, perched on a rock
plays a harmonica, halo’d by the sun
as it falls in a golden blaze
behind the peaked pyramids to the west.
A donkey, with three children aboard,
their skinny legs dangling
scuttles off home-ward;
some young men linger, kicking around
 their football in the gathering dusk
while our sand-bogged vehicle,
at last lurches out of the clutches
 of its rut, thanks to a kindly gaggle
of passing helpers, all smiles and cheers
 - in the way of how,
in these edgeless wildernesses
people can appear out of nowhere
as suddenly as they vanish.